Fagottini
They were often prepared at Christmastime, since they are made with the
same dough as cartellate.
They probably derived from a sweet introduced to Apulia by the Arabs between
the IX and X centuries. Reminiscent of calzoni, they are part of
popular gastronomical traditions throughout the areas of southern Italy
and Tuscany that were subject to Saracen incursions.
In Apulia, they are enriched with the addition of typical local products
that have changed their taste. Our varieties may be salted, stuffed with
cheese, other dairy products, vegetables or chilli pepper; or sweet, filled
with minced almonds or various jams.
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They were traditionally prepared for Easter and, generally, for the most important family occasions: marriages, baptisms, communions.
In some of the areas around Bari, tarallucci are familiarly called St. Lucia's eyes.
On Good Friday, groups of shouting children used to follow the Procession of the Mysteries, brandishing wooden swords, rather like the thugs who escorted Jesus along the Way of the Cross. These charming urchins used rope for belts, strung with tarallucci which they munched on along the way.
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SUGARED TARALLUCCI
SUGARED MEZZANI
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Tondini e Mezzani
When sweet biscuits
did not yet exist, or were not affordable, these simple sweets were prepared
for children at home. They were round (made with a cup), star-shaped,
or in various other shapes. In addition to enjoying them soaked in milk
or, more modestly, in water, the children carried them in their satchels
when they went to school.
How to enjoy them
Their taste and flavour may always be enjoyed by dipping them in water
or, but only for grown-up consumers!, in wine. They are undoubtedly valid
and more natural replacements for sweet biscuits at breakfast-time or
for snacks, with milk, as a healthy and natural between-meal treat.
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Cartellate
It would seem as though
the name comes from their curved, incartellato, shape, the word
being a vernacular synonym for incartocciato ("wrapped in
paper"). And, these sweets are in fact sold, wrapped in paper, in
the shape of an arabesque. They are likely of Greek origin, part of the
cult of Demeter, in honour of whom ciceone were prepared. These
were a mixture of flour, wine and honey, with which the carteddate
seem to have many elements in common. Not least of which is the fact of
their being the first offering made to the divinity in order to thank
her for a good harvest. Hence, this is a typically peasant-style sweet
that has become a main feature of Christmas celebrations. They may be
baked in the oven and then covered with vincotto, a syrup made
with sweet wine from dried grapes and figs, and then sprinkled with cinnamon.
Or, they may be fried in a pan, garnished with honey, and finally, sprinkled
with cinnamon sugar.
How to enjoy them
Granai del Sud offers both variations of the recipe, prepared with local
ingredients.
Cartellate al vin cotto and, a more modern speciality, with honey,
in the puff pastry variety from the Valle d'Itria hills, dotted with cone-roofed
houses.
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